Are you planning to build something with wood? You are to be commended.In a world where people mostly prefer ready-to-use products, a DIY project on woodworking takes a huge leap of confidence. However, using just any type of wood will not work at all. After all, you have to know some things about your wood even before you start building.
Speed up your woodworking projects, improve the quality of glue connections and make your project look better with these tips for gluing wood.
- Gorilla Wood Glue : BUY
- Elmer’s Wood Glue : Buy
- TiteBond Waterproof Glue : Buy
- MinMax Wood conditioner : Buy
- MinMax Wood Finish : Buy
- Mineral Spirit Wood : Buy
Plain Old Wood Glue Is Best
Dozens of glues claim to work well on wood and a variety of other materials. But regular wood glue is the best wood glue for raw wood-to-wood joinery. Most wood glues are a type of polyvinyl acetate (PVA). Also sometimes called carpenter’s glue, wood glue is formulated to penetrate wood fibers, making glue joints that are stronger than the wood itself.
Wood Glue Can Last For Years
You may have heard that PVA glue goes bad after freezing or sitting around for a long time, but the truth is that it might still be OK. Try stirring it with a stick to mix all the glue particles (don’t just shake it). If it’s a little thick, add some water—up to 5 percent. If glue flows freely from the bottle and feels slippery between your fingers—not stringy or clumpy—it’s probably OK to use. But if in doubt, throw it out. It’s not worth taking the chance.
Use Waterproof Glue For Outdoor Projects
If your carpentry project might get wet, use glue that stands up to water. Glues labeled ‘water resistant’ are fine for things that’ll only get wet occasionally. For most outdoor projects, however, choose ‘waterproof’ glue, which comes in both PVA and polyurethane formulas. Both types are plenty strong and stand up to the weather, but polyurethane glue has the added benefit of being able to bond materials like stone, metal and glass. It’s messy stuff, though, so wear gloves while using it.
Mask Glue Joints Before Prefinishing
Finishing the parts of your project before you assemble them can be a great time-saver and allow you to get a better-quality finish. But for a strong glue joint, you have to keep the joints free of finish (glue doesn’t stick to varnish or stains very well). The solution is to apply masking tape to the surfaces that will be glued. Then remove it to expose raw wood when you glue up the project. Any good-quality masking tape will work. If you’ll be using a water-based finish, you’ll get the best results with a “no-bleed” tape such as green Frog Tape and ScotchBlue painter’s tape.
Apply Wood Glue With A Flux Brush
Flux brushes, available in the plumbing department of hardware stores and home centers, are just right for applying and spreading glue. They work especially well for gluing intricate joints like the ones in the coped door rail shown here. You can store a wet brush for a few days in water and then wash and use it over and over again.
Cover Bar Clamps With Wax Paper
When you use steel bar clamps or pipe clamps, and wood glue comes in contact with the clamp, the moisture in the glue can cause the steel to leave a dark mark on your wood. Lay a sheet of wax paper over the clamps to prevent this “dark spot” problem. It will also catch glue drips that would otherwise get all over your clamps and workbench.
Rub The Joint
One good way to ensure a strong glue joint is to use the ‘rub joint’ method. Simply apply glue to the edges of one or both boards and rub them together to help spread the glue evenly before clamping.
Add One Board At A Time
When you’re gluing several boards together, it can be difficult to get all the top surfaces perfectly aligned. Here’s a tip that solves the problem. Rather than glue and clamp all the boards at once, add one board at a time. Let the glue joint set for about 20 to 30 minutes, then release the clamps and add another board. This method will take a little longer. But it makes it a lot easier to keep all of the boards’ top surfaces flush, which makes for much easier flattening and sanding of the surface.
Attach Small Pieces With Superglue
Of course you reach for a superglue (cyanocacrylate glue, or CA) to fix a broken teacup handle. But did you know that it works on wood, too? In fact, CA glue is really handy for attaching small trim pieces that would be hard to clamp. Just put three or four drops onto the parts and stick them together. We like the gel version of CA glue because it doesn’t run off and make a mess.
Spread Glue With A Notched Trowel
When you’re gluing large surfaces, an inexpensive notched plastic trowel works great for spreading the glue. To find one, look in the flooring or tile section of the hardware store or home center. If you’re fortunate enough to have a pair of “pinking” shears in the family sewing basket, you can make our own spreader from an expired credit card.
Water Finds Hidden Glue
Once squeezed-out glue has been removed, there’s still a chance that some is hiding. And if you don’t find it now, you’ll see it later when you apply stain or finish. Spray some warm water near glue joints to make hidden glue more visible. The water will also soften the dried glue, making it easier to scrape off.
Let It Jell, Then Shave It Off
Look at any woodworkers’ forum and you’ll likely find a debate about the best way to remove glue squeeze-out. Some woodworkers insist that you should clean it up immediately with a damp rag. Others let it dry completely, then scrape it off. We think that in most cases the best method is to wait about 30 to 60 minutes—just until the glue turns a darker color and changes to a gel—and then shave it off with a sharp chisel. This will remove almost all of the glue without making a mess. You may still have a little cleanup to do, but it’s a lot less work than cleaning up wet glue or removing hard glue.
Remove Excess Glue With An Abrasive Pad
It can be difficult to remove excess glue with a rag. And if you don’t get it all off the surface when it’s wet, the dried glue can show up as light spots when you finish your project. But a synthetic abrasive pad, dampened with water, works perfectly to remove the glue. Dip the pad in a container of water. Unlike a rag, which is hard to rinse glue from, the pad has a loose synthetic weave that releases glue easily. After rinsing out the pad, shake it to remove most of the water. Then use it to scrub off excess glue. When you’re done, dry the surface with a clean rag. Green abrasive pads are found with the cleaning supplies at grocery stores, hardware stores and home centers.
Remove Hardened Glue With A Paint Scraper
We’ve all been there. You glue up your project and then quit for the night. The next day you discover the rock-hard glue and realize that you forgot to scrape off the glue squeeze-out. Don’t despair. A sharp paint scraper makes fast work of hardened glue. Either a sharp steel scraper or, better yet, a carbide paint scraper will pop off all those glue beads in a heartbeat.
Tack, Then Clamp
Wood glue makes boards slippery, so it can be hard to keep them lined up correctly while you apply clamps. An easy solution is to hold the parts in alignment with a few strategically placed brads before you apply the clamps. For leg glue-ups like we show here, cut your parts extra long and place the brads where they’ll get cut off during the finishing process. Otherwise, just place brads where the filled holes won’t be too visible.
The Right Amount Of Glue
With a little experience, you’ll develop a feel for how much glue is just enough. Too little glue creates a “starved joint,” which will be weak. Too much glue makes a mess and wastes glue. With practice, you’ll know just how much to apply. You should see a continuous line of small glue beads. When this perfect glue joint sets a little, you’ll find it easy to scrape off the jelled excess, and you’ll have very little cleanup to do.
Picking The Best Exterior Glue
An exterior-grade yellow woodworking glue may work fine, especially if it’s protected by a coat of paint or somewhere out of the rain. However, for joints that get a lot of weather, use polyurethane glue; it’s one of the best wood glue products because it’s fully waterproof and bonds wood and other materials well. It’s not gap-filling, so be sure to get a good fit and clamp it.
Apply Tape To Control Glue Squeeze-Out
Glue squeeze-out soaks into the fibers of raw wood, leaving blemishes when you later apply the finish.The usual solution for this is to clean it off with a wet rag or sponge. But too much water around the joint can weaken the bond. It’s better to stick down masking tape along both edges of the joint before gluing.The excess glue will then squeeze out onto the tape instead of the wood, and you can just peel the glue away when it’s dry.
Glue + Sawdust = Wood Filler
When you need wood filler that matches the color of your project, mix some fine sawdust and glue together until it forms a paste, which you can use to fill small gaps and cracks. For best results, use sawdust from the same species of wood as your project; you can get some from the bag on your electric sander. Just don’t try this trick for large gaps or patches—they’ll stick out like a sore thumb.
Avoid Sunken Joints
PVA glue has lots of water in it, and that water will cause the wood edges at glue joints to swell. If you plane or sand glued-up panels too soon, you could be left with sunken joints after the wood dries and shrinks to its original state. Most water-based glues reach full cure in about 24 hours, but it can take several days for swollen glue joints to shrink back to size. If you’re gluing up a fine piece of furniture that you hope will become a family heirloom, wait a few days after gluing up your project before sanding or planing.
Slow-Setting Glue Buys You Time
Most wood glues set up quickly, which can be a blessing or a curse. Sometimes you want a quick bond, but on a complicated glue-up, you might want more time before the glue starts to set up. Slow-setting glues have labels that say ‘longer assembly time’ or ‘longer open time.’
Use a pre-conditioner
Using a pre-conditioner is very important before staining wood. A preconditioner can seal up wood, thus resulting to a less blotchy and even finish. This happens as this substance offers a nice and even base where you can apply your stain.
Stain The Wood
- This will determine how you proceed and the effect you can expect at the end.
- Basic wood types are:
- Softwoods- Pine, Fir and Cedar. (etc.)
- Hardwoods- Oak, Beech, Ash, Elm, Birch and Walnut.(etc.)
- This is sometimes confusing because you have:
- Box wood and Aspen: A very soft Hardwood.
- Fir: A very hard Softwood.
Consider a wood conditioner for soft woods. If the wood has uneven wood grain, or blotchy patterns to it, chances are it is a softwood. When you stain it, it will stain unevenly. You may want this, to let the stain enhance the natural beauty of the wood. If you do not want this, place a pre-stain wood conditioner on your wood. It seeps into the wood fibers so that the wood will stain evenly. Check with the manufacturer.
Keep in mind that hard woods will take more coats. If the wood has a consistent flow or pattern to the grain, it’s probably a hardwood. Use whatever stain you wish to enhance the wood grain.
- Hardwoods, such as oak, may take a few more coatings of stain than softwood, but the results are still very pleasing.
Decide what type of sandpaper you should use. The lower the grit number, the rougher the wood will be, the more stain will absorb into the wood and the darker your project piece will be. (And that’s on the first application). The opposite is true as well. The higher the grit number, the smoother the wood will be, the less will absorb into the wood and the results are a lighter stained project piece.
For flat surfaced pieces, use a lower grit sandpaper (60 or 80) to remove any blemishes and scuffs. Next use a higher grit number (100 or 120). Keep in mind what depth of stain you are looking for in your finished piece. If you want a finished (med.) depth of stain, stop with the 100 or 120 grit. If you want it lighter, go with a higher grit number.
Know the types of stains, and what they do:
- Oil-based stains provide long lasting wood tone color. They penetrate deep into the pores to seal and protect the wood, bringing out its natural beauty
- Water based stains provide an even stain color. They will not absorb unevenly like an oil based stain.
- Gels add natural colors to a wide range of wood and non-wood products but it can be difficult to get out of grooves in wood.
- Pastels are an oil-based wood stain which provide a soft pastel color while highlighting the grain of the wood.
- Pigment stains will fill the grains and leave the wood surface with less colorant.
- Dyes will stain the grain and the areas between the grain approximately the same color.
Use polyurethane for protection and beauty. It comes in satin, semi-gloss and high or clear gloss.
If you are using the liquid type, wearing gloves, brush it on with the grain. If you put too much on, you must continue to brush it out. You will have to babysit the wood, making sure that it doesn’t hold bubbles or run. Once it looks like it is setting up, leave it alone for another 4 hours. Then reapply if you wish.
Please refer to the manufacturers instructions and times. Every brand is a little different, so you’ll need to know your own.
Refresh Wood Surfaces With Mineral Spirits
Mineral spirits, more commonly known as paint thinner, are clear liquid solvents used in painting and decorating. Sometimes called white spirit or Stoddard solvent, they can be used industrially for stripping paint, taking grease off machine tools, and removing dirt and oils from metals, making them particularly useful in car part assembly. White spirit can also be mixed with other liquids and used as a lubricant for thread cutting.
Apply the Mineral Spirits
Take your bottle of Stoddard solvent, and pour out a small amount onto a rag. If you don’t want to pour the spirits directly onto a cloth, you can also tip out a little in a plastic saucer or lid and dip a cloth into the liquid.
TIP: White spirit can be damaging to a variety of surfaces. For example, it can destroy the shine on a “no wax” floor. Always check the surface you plan to treat by testing a small, inconspicuous area to see how it reacts to the solvent. If it proves damaging in that one area, don’t move forward with it.
Wipe Down the Surface
When you have finished cleaning the item with mineral spirits, use a clean dry cloth to wipe over the item. This will remove any lingering paint thinner, which could cause harm if left unchecked. You should then let the surface dry before using it again or replacing any items you removed before cleaning.
Dispose of Solvent Soaked Rags
Used rags and other cleaning materials that have absorbed white spirit should never be thrown in the normal garbage. Even after use, the chemicals on the rags remain flammable and spontaneous trash fires can occur.
Dispose of mineral spirit soaked rags by putting them in a sealed container like a coffee can with a lid and filling the can with water so that all of the rags are submerged. Completely submerging them is the only way to completely remove any risk of a fire. You can then either bring the container to your local hazardous waste disposal center or hold on to it until your area has a hazardous waste pick up day.
Paint thinner is volatile and highly flammable. If you are planning to use mineral spirits, always follow any safety instructions listed by the manufacturer. Use the proper protective gear to cover your skin and eyes, and be sure to keep your work area well ventilated as fumes from the spirits can also be harmful.